Breads Bakery

When a man sidles up to you at a bakery and tells you to squeeze the babka, there might be a couple of things going on. Either this is some kind of creepily carb-focused flirting or he’s pretty damned excited about fresh babka. After I’d selected the most pliant loaf I knew he had given me good advice. It was easily the best babka I’ve ever had—a yeasty, buttery bundle with a delicately moist middle, swirled with cinnamon, raisins, and chopped walnuts, and capped with a substantial, braided crust like a sticky bun. It’s not bad after a few hours, or days, but straight from the oven, it’s a small miracle.

Although Breads Bakery has only been open since January, it’s quickly building a following for its rugelach and babka (particularly the chocolate babka, which I have yet to try but, well, just look). The bakery, which originated as a mini chain in Tel Aviv, specializes in breads from all over Europe. Their baguette and focaccia, for example, are both outstanding. The only reason I haven’t delved into the Danish rye or walnut bread yet is I cannot resist those savory focaccias, fluffy pillows lightly dressed with olive oil and salt, topped with onion, or with tomatoes and olives. Yes, I even ate black olives, the beastly things, I was so besotted with this bread.

The only item I’ve regretted getting thus far was the almond croissant, a weighty butter bomb that took hours to walk off. The cheese sticks, however, are downright dangerous. They’re all buttery chew and aged cheddar bite, with a salty crust that crumbles and melts on your tongue. Next thing you’re conscious of, you’ve slipped a few moments into the future and your cheese stick is gone. That’s the kind of bliss point that might make a food scientist swoon.

Breads Bakery
Located tantalizingly close to the Greenmarket at 18 E 16th St
Mon-Fri 7am-7pm, Sat-Sun 8am-7pm