Momofuku Noodle Bar

If you asked me to pick my favorite treat right now, I’d probably say Momofuku’s pork buns. You might ask, why pork buns, or more specifically, why Momofuku pork buns when there’s better and cheaper versions available in Chinatown and Queens? There’s a lot to be said for proximity, I suppose. But quality counts, too–tender morsels of melt-in-your-mouth Berkshire pork belly, roasted crisp on the edges and layered with slivers of succulent fat wrapped taco-like in sweet, spongey bread, sparsely dressed with scallions, pickled cucumbers, and tangy hoisin. They’re popular for a reason.

Back in 2004, you had to queue up at the sole Momofuku for these. Since chef David Chang has added other, bun-equipped restaurants to his mini-empire, it had been a long time since I’d visited the original Momofuku. So I was curious to see what it had to offer these days.

After a wait of about twenty minutes, we were seated at a long, modern bar, ideal for a party of two.  The appetizers were seasonal specials that may be out of rotation by now—but if they were any indication, Momofuku’s small plates are really, really good. My favorite was a seared diver sea scallop flecked with lime zest and floating in a bed of smoky, chili-spiked corn ($12 for a single scallop—but what a scallop). My next pick, a summer squash salad with pickled beets, perfectly dressed with tofu vinaigrette ($12), stood out for its crunchy pine-nut brittle topping.

After these starters, the main courses seemed a bit of a let-down. But that may have been a matter of selection. A bowl of ginger scallion noodles, although nicely flavored and cooked to a just-right springy texture, is, when you come right down to it, just a bowl of noodles. The ramen ($16) was a little more exciting: more delicious pork belly, shaved pork shoulder, scallions, fishcake, poached egg, and noodles. The broth was salty for my taste, though, especially after having tried nearby Japanese Ippudo and Ramen Setagaya.

Verdict: go for anything with pork and no broth. Try the seasonal specials and check out the ever-changing $30 prix-fixe dinner menu. Also, Momofuku now serves a fried chicken dinner ($100 for two whole chickens, moo shu pancakes, and vegetables) which, if you have four buddies to split the cost, looks hella good.

Worshiping at the Altar of Ramen – NYTimes.com
Pork Bun Recipe – Gourmet.com

Momofuku Noodle Bar
171 First Ave., between 10th and 11th street
Lunch: daily 12pm-4pm, Dinner: Sun-Thu 5:30pm-11pm, Fri-Sat 5:30pm-12am